In July 2018 I shot at my home studio with makeup artist Gemma Howell and model Grace Cairns to create four looks for a beauty editorial. In this blog, I share our behind the scenes video where Gemma chats about the makeup she's created and I show you how to create a four light setup in a small home studio. I will also share a selection of Raw unedited photos and the final hi-end retouched images which were published in the November 2018 beauty issue of Ellements magazine.
Camera and Lenses. I used my Canon 5D mkIV and started with my 85mm f1.2 lens with an aperture of f.13, I then swapped to my Sigma 150mm lens for close-up shots and also changed my f-stop to f.14
Above: Look one of our beauty editorial for Ellements magazine, November 2018. Model Grace Cairns and makeup artist Gemma Howell
Above: This is one spread of our Beauty editorial for Ellements magazine, November 2018.
Above: Behind the scenes with makeup artist Gemma Howell and model Grace Cairns
Above: Final retouched image. Model Grace Cairns, makeup by Gemma Howell
For our next look, Gemma went for bright colours, smudged, glossy lips and messy braids. She used Blonde lashes from Sweed lashes, pink and gold tones by Viseart in Nuance theory and Petit pro 1.
Please follow Gemma to find out more - Instagram link below
Above: Final retouched image. Model Grace Cairns, Hair and makeup by Gemma Howell.
Instead of creating just beauty headshots we had all previously discussed the idea of adding ropes into the shoot which was inspired by Japanese rope art. Just as Gemma was building up the makeup for each look, we also wanted to change the rope ties and add a rough texture to the image which would contrast against Grace’s light skin.
Above: Beauty and Rope. Inspired by Japanese Shibari rope art.
Above: Beauty and Rope. Inspired by Japanese Shibari rope art we wanted to add rope as Gemma was building on the makeup to contrast against Grace's soft skin.
For the final look, Gemma created a dramatic winged eyeliner, added mascara and changed the lips to a peach. Gemma then created a high ponytail which reminded me of a Japanese top knot.
Above: Final retouched image. Amazing makeup by artist Gemma Howell creating glowy skin, flushed cheeks and pink lips.
Above: Beauty and Rope. After shooting our beauty images I then tied a basic Shibari box tie called a Takate-Kote for the finished look.
Above: "Rope Marks" final retouched image. Model Grace Cairns and makeup artist Gemma Howell
Lighting: I used a 2 head Profoto B2 location kit and 2 of my old Bowens Esprit 500s studio lights. To find out how I lit this shoot, please take a look at our behind the scenes video where I show you in detail. Please don't forget to subscribe, like and comment!
Behind the scenes video on YouTube.
Above: Makeup artist Gemma Howell creating the second look on our beauty editorial for Ellements magazine, November 2018.
Above and below: Two examples of unedited files. This image has had the colours converted in Adobe Lightroom but has not been retouched, it's basically as it came off the camera.
Below: As a photographer quite often all you see are the finished retouched beauty images, here I wanted to show you how the image came off the camera and how we briefed our retoucher to amend the image. I also included in the brief instructions on retouching the skin. It's important for me to keep the skin looking natural and not overworked and only remove minor blemishes.
Hair and Makeup: Gemma Howell
Model: Grace Cairns
Photography: Phil Jones
Retouching: Andrey Shchepkin and Phil Jones